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By Deb Thompson

For Newbies, or those that want to hone their lead dog’s directional skills, here is a nifty method for teaching GEE/HAW:

Start out by working on ONE command at a time (facilitates learning).
The 6 that this post is focusing on are:

"GEE" - turn right (mnemonic: "Gee, you're right!")

"HAW" - turn left (mnemonic: "Haw, southpaw")

"WHOA" - stop (I think we are born knowing this one...)

"HIKE" - go (or you can just use Let's Go....an occasional horse driver has even been known to use "Giddy up".)

"STRAIGHT AHEAD" - would you believe, straight ahead?

“LEAVE-IT “or “ON BY” - which means ignore something.

If you are dyslexic (which I am--I still haven't got "left" and "right" sorted out), I just put a "G" on the back of my right hand, and a "H" on the back of my left hand with a pen or marker. The dogs actually have learned these commands and know them better than
me....they probably aren't dyslexic.

I find a really good place that give you lots of opportunities to practice with minimal walking, is a parking lot with parked cars in it. I work the dog on the ground from behind with a harness and collar so the dog is pulling with the harness, but I have the lead on the collar to help direct when necessary:

http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/SEMushers/photos/view/1907?b=5

To begin, work on either "GEE" or "HAW" (your choice—but not both!) You will also be using "WHOA", "HIKE", “LEAVE-IT (or ON-BY)”, and “STRAIGHT AHEAD”. You will be traveling through the parking lot making frequent turns in the direction of your choice (let's say "Gee".) The parked cars provide ample possibilities for turns. Practice for 10 minutes including "Whoa". Do NOT add the other direction. You can do this 2 or 3 times a day....little short sessions with plenty of practice.

Once the dog is responding reliably to “GEE”, then you can add “HAW” along with the one you have been working on. Start out with the one he knows, and then throw in the new one. Your dog will probably turn in the same direction you have been going. Guide him with the leash repeating the command often to associate the new direction with the command. He will realize "something different is afoot!" Do several of the new command in a row...then throw in just a few of the one he already knows. The emphasis will be on the new command. Again, the sessions will be short, 10 minutes, and it is beneficial if you can practice 2 or 3 times a day.

If the dog ANTICIPATES a turn before you give the command, correct him by not allowing him to make the turn, but making him go straight. The dog should not decide when to turn. That is the driver's job.

Timing of the command is important also. I give my dog just enough warning so that they are able to make the turn. I expect to say the command, and an instance later they are taking the turn. This is important in tight areas where there are many opportunities for turns. Also if there is an obstacle (hole, tree branch, etc.) and you want to
quickly avoid it.

Also, be very alert to your own handling skills so that you are NOT cueing the dog to make the turn other than with the verbal command. Otherwise, the dog becomes dependent on your little pressure on the lead rather than the vocal. You do use the lead command to guide, but you phase it out, and then use it ONLY as a corrective guide when the dog misses the command. I even stop the dog (WITHOUT “WHOA” because we are NOT stopping, but making a turn) with the lead and hold the dog in place while repeating the command. He wants to be moving and knows he should be moving, but realizes he needs to make a decision about the direction in which to be moving. You repeat the command several times at this juncture so that he hears the word repeated to help ingrain it in his brain. Only when he makes the correct choice do you allow him to proceed, and then praise him using the directional word again, e.g. "Good GEE! Good GEE!"

Once you are done with your training session, PUT THE DOG AWAY. Let him be alone with his thoughts with nothing to do except absorb the lesson for an hour. Studies in humans have shown that sleeping after a learning session improves retention. Common sense would tell you that you tend to think about the last stimulating thing you did. However, if you do something else right away (like play ball or Frisbee with your dog), this stimulating activity will take the place of the training session in your dog’s thoughts and he will not dwell on the training experience as long to enhance his memory of the lesson.

One more note; your dog may seem to have learned the commands, and then suddenly not know them or get confused. This is part of the learning process. Even people experience it. You cram for something and learn it, think you know it, and then get confused. Later it comes back and is thoroughly ingrained. This phenomenon is known to
teachers. It is hypothesized to involve the transfer of learning from short-term memory to that of long-term memory in the brain. During this process, the information is temporarily unavailable. If you have ever played a musical instrument, then you are very familiar with this phenomenon.

So, don't get impatient....it will all come together, and you may find like I have (much to my chagrin), that your dogs know the commands much better than you do.